Put on your walking shoes

AUGUST 10, AUBAGNE, FRANCE—We are really on a role here. Another fine, clear morning in the south of France. After the incredible meal of the night before, we put on our walking shoes, headed over to Alain’s and Josianne’s house and prepared for a day of sight seeing in Marseille.

Stefanina had never been to Marseille, so she was in for a treat. France’s second largest city has been a crossroads for all of the civilizations of the Mediterranean basin for over 2,600 years. Alain-Philippe, Stef and I all got into the Renault Mégane hatchback and began the journey through light morning traffic towards the center of Marseille. We took the tunnel that let us out near the Vieux Port. We drove up to the top of the hill overlooking the port and found a nice spot next to the medieval abbey of Saint-Victor. After a look inside, we then walked down the hill and around the Vieux Port on to the Quai des Belges where we began a brief walking tour of the center of the city. We concluded the morning portion of our tour with a stop at the Guess store off of the Rue Paradis to see Stefania’s friend, Sébastien, the owner. Sébastien showed us around and talked a little shop with Stefania before inviting us to the Novotel that overlooks Marseille for a buffet lunch. On his tab, of course. We spent about two hours sitting on the terrace in the sun eating good food and enjoying the view of the fort Saint-Jean next to the Baie de Marseille before parting company.

Alain-Philippe then directed us back to where the car was parked. Nearby is a château that overlooks the harbor built for Napoléon III’s wife, though she never lived there. We snapped a few pics before mounting up again to go take the sinuous, narrow road up to “La Bonne Mère” or the cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, the church that protects the city. It is quite a drive. On the way one passes an American Sherman tank that was left where it stands as the Allies liberated Marseille in 1944. The citizens of the city repaint the tank every year. Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde offers one of the best views of the city. One can see off in the direction of Cassis to the southeast, the hills to the north of the city and the old harbor.

After the tour of the cathedral, it was back in the car to drive along the Canebière, the road that runs along the sea between the Parc Borély and the municipal beaches. Along this route we stopped for a quick jaunt down stairs in between two buildings to a tiny little protected harbor that you wouldn’t know was there unless someone pointed it out to you. It is called the Vallon des Auffes. We snapped a few photos then hurried back to the car. From there it was on down the road to Les Goudes, where the Calanques begin. The Calanques are the famous limestone cliffs between Marseille and Cassis. They are a protected natural habitat. Some can only be reached by boat and they are quite stunning in their natural beauty. When you reach the end of the road at Les Goudes, you have to turn around.
We went home the long way, over the Col de la Gineste and back to where we started in Gémenos.

After a dip in the pool and some photo ops with the girls, Alain-Philippe, Stef and I decided to go over to a nice restaurant in Gémenos to eat. We bought him dinner for his kindness in showing us around; he must of led that tour a thousand times for various friends and family members. From there we parted ways as Alain-Philippe had to begin his preparations for his trip home to the States.

On Tuesday, the weather was still grand and the Stefster was dying to go to the beach, so we drove over to the small port of Cassis nestled between the cliffs of the Cap Canaille and the Gardiole. It’s about 25 km southeast of Marseille. There is a small picturesque harbor from where boat tours of the Calanques leave and a small beach. It is absolutely crawling with tourists so we parked the car outside of the city and took the free shuttle bus into town. Before hitting the beach with my latest bicycling magazines we went on a boat ride and visited some of the Calanques.

After a day at the beach, we decided not to wait in line for the shuttle bus and hoofed it back to the car, some 5 km away and over some very steep hills. Had to walk off the previous night’s dinner anyway. Once back at the hotel we decided to go out to dinner at the Vallon des Auffes. But first we took a slight detour and headed to the east of Cassis to drive the Route des Crêtes, a dangerous, winding road that snakes along the cliffs overlooking the sea near the town of La Ciotat. After this adventure it was off to Marseille where I made it back to the hidden little harbor without looking at a map, I must say. Great dinner with a very colorful waiter with a heavy Marseillais accent. Stef slurped down the oysters while I had a delicious grilled poisson de Loup.

On Wednesday, we drove into Aubagne to do some shopping. Then it was back to the hotel. I put my bike together to go for a ride while Stef took the car and drove to Marseille to meet with some of her Guess colleagues again. I hadn’t been feeling that hot, nothing serious, just a little crud, but decided to go climb the massif de la Ste. Beaume, another of the large limestone mountains surrounding Gémenos. I’ve never climbed small mountains like this before. It is about a 10 km climb with an average grade of 8 percent. I didn’t have any power that day, still suffering the effects of the virus I had. But, I attacked the mountain anyway. I got about a third of the way up when a rain storm moved in and I heard thunder. Saved by the bell. I immediately turned around and rode the brakes all the way back down. By the time I exited the park and rode back through the center of the village it was raining pretty well. I decided to call it a day and went back to the hotel. I showered up and waited for the Stef to come back saving my strength for later in the week when I planned to try the famed Mont Ventoux.